![]() The score, a dead heat: Vinturi 1, Au Naturel 1 |||||| Bar Boulud sommelier Michael Madrigale noses some aerated wine.** Photograph by Matt Duckor Even though Francesco Grosso, wine director at Marea, lamented the loss of bright, fresh fruit in #4, the group still unanimously favored it. Wine #4 was softer and had more length (the Cadillac DeVille to #1's compact car, if you will) and it drank as if it had time to turn down the music and unlock the door. Beyond aromatics, the most striking difference that the group found in the wines was textural. The aromatics in wine #2 (Vinturi) were completely different: It was earthy and the fruit was darker, with more mineral character. Wine #1 (au naturel) was definitely tense, with aromatics that leaned heavily on red cherry fruit and some herbaceousness lurking in the waits. ![]() These are wines that typically require time or, if that's a virtue you don't have, significant aeration. The rest of us agreed that wine #2 was less austere, but that it lacked the vibrancy, balance and minerality of wine #1.įlight #2: Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 2007 The nebbiolo grape, the variety responsible for the famed wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, is notorious for breeding wines that are as capricious and tannic as an angsty teen. ![]() Jordan Salcito, the wine director at NYC's Crown, felt that aromatics in wine #2 were more pronounced, but that the alcohol poked out, making the wine feel a bit flabby and unbalanced. Wine #2 (Vinturi) was rounder and more approachable, but it sacrificed that mineral edge for Jezebelian fruit. Wine #1 (au naturel) was sharp, edgy and mineral driven with the kind of acidity that's become a hallmark of this vintage. ![]() After we dried our eyes, we got to talking about the wines. ![]()
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